Brown Butter Sage Pappardelle with Roasted Pumpkin & Cognac Cream

This is what happens to leftover roasted pumpkin in my kitchen. I started with the pumpkin, made a sage brown butter, and kept going: a splash of cognac, cream, a lot of parmesan, and Fleurish Farm Roast to pull it together. The pumpkin melts into the sauce in places and holds its shape in others, and wide ribbons of pappardelle catch all of it. It's an incredible fall dinner.

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1 lb pappardelle
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
• 12–15 fresh sage leaves, patted completely dry
• 2–3 tablespoons cognac
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more to serve
• 2 cups roasted pumpkin, in bite-size pieces (see our roasted pumpkin wedges)
• 1 teaspoon Fleurish Farm Roast (or garlic powder, onion powder and dried parsley)
• Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper

First: crispy sage and brown butter

I learned this one the hard way. If the sage sits in the butter while it browns, the leaves burn and the butter turns bitter. Crisp the sage first and take it out, then brown the butter on its own and get it out of the pan the moment it's ready.

1. Use a light-colored pan. Stainless steel lets you see the butter change color; in a dark pan it's easy to go too far.
2. Crisp the sage. Melt the butter over medium-low heat until it foams. Add the sage leaves in a single layer and fry for 30–60 seconds, just until they stop sizzling and turn a deeper green. Lift them out right away onto a paper towel and sprinkle with flaky salt. They keep crisping as they cool.
3. Brown the butter. Raise the heat to medium and keep cooking, swirling the pan, for 2–4 minutes. The foam settles, the milk solids on the bottom turn golden brown, and it smells like toasted hazelnuts. Those brown flecks are the flavor you want. Black specks or a sharp, bitter smell mean it has gone too far.
4. Stop the cooking. Pour the brown butter into a heatproof bowl right away, scraping in the brown bits. The pan stays hot enough to burn the solids if you leave it in. If any specks did turn black, strain the butter through a fine sieve.

Make ahead: The sage brown butter keeps covered in the fridge for up to a week. Store the crispy leaves separately at room temperature.

Then: the pasta

1. Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the pappardelle until just al dente. Save about 1 cup of pasta water before draining.
2. Add the cognac. Wipe out the skillet if any dark bits are left. Off the heat, add about two-thirds of the brown butter and the cognac (it may flare up), then set the pan over medium-low heat and let it bubble for about 30 seconds.
3. Make the cream sauce. Add the cream, Farm Roast and a good grind of pepper and simmer gently for 2–3 minutes, until slightly thickened. Keep the heat low so the cream doesn't scorch.
4. Add the pumpkin. Stir in the roasted pumpkin and gently mash a few pieces into the sauce to thicken it, leaving the rest in chunks.
5. Bring it together. Add the drained pappardelle and the parmesan and toss, adding splashes of pasta water until the sauce is glossy and coats every ribbon. Taste and season with salt.
6. Finish. Plate the pasta, spoon over the rest of the brown butter, and top with the crispy sage, more parmesan and black pepper.

Tip: Any roasted winter squash works here. Butternut, kabocha or a sugar pumpkin all make a lovely sauce.